Zach Pollack’s Alimento on Silver Lake Blvd. remains one of my standout favorite Italian restaurants in the city (the “coming soon” Brunch teaser on their website has me waiting with baited breath and a hungry belly!), and though the effervescent Grüner Veltliner on draft is my go-to beverage choice, I love mixing up the remainder of my meal each time I visit. The Chopped Salad “migliorata” provides a fresh and crunchy counterpart to heavy, creamy dishes like the Chicken Liver Crostone with black plum mustard, and Pollack’s refined take on a“Pig in a Blanket” (with mortadella, flaky spelt pastry, brovada, and stracchino), is both inspired and ridiculously delicious. Though typically not a huge pasta eater, I adore the restaurant’s “gnòc” with oxtail, marrow, and potato, and the Tortellini in Brodo “al contrario” is such a beautiful little wrapped parcel that bursts with hot broth when punctured that I agree with Pollack’s decision to make this dish – traditionally served as a first course during Christmas dinner – as a signature item on the restaurant’s menu.
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